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Sunday 15 Sep

Rich, fruity, and ever so boozy, a good Christmas cake is the epitome of the festive season, but how did this tradition come to be?

The Christmas cake has its roots in plum porridge, eaten on Christmas Eve to line stomachs after a day of fasting. After a while, the porridge mixture included dried fruit, spices, and honey, to create a Christmas pudding. By the 16th century, oatmeal was replaced with butter, wheat flour, and eggs, holding the mixture together in a boiled plum cake. Richer families with ovens began making fruit cakes with marzipan, an almond sugar paste, for Easter, and for Twelfth Night, they made a similar cake using seasonal dried fruit and exotic spices, which represented the eastern spices brought by the Magi.

With increasing industrialisation during the Victorian period and shifting working patterns, people enjoyed a shorter Yuletide holiday, ensuring the slow decline in popularity of the Twelfth Night. Christmas Day became the focus of festive celebrations, and with this shift, the bakers of the Victorian era started to decorate the cakes with winter snow scenes. They became very popular at Christmas parties and by the 1870’s the modern Christmas cake had developed. None recognisable from its plum porridge roots.

Let us bake

Like most things in life, a Christmas cake tastes better when baked at home. This recipe is for a round cake tin, approximately 18cm diameter. You can use a different sized tin and vary quantities accordingly.

Ingredients

  • 500g mixed fruit (raisins, sultanas, and currants)
  • 75g glacé cherries, rinsed, dried and quartered
  • 75g dried apricots, chopped
  • 40g mixed candied peel, finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp brandy, plus extra for feeding the cake
  • 175g plain flour
  • ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
  • ½ tsp ground mixed spice
  • 175g butter, softened, plus extra for greasing
  • 175g dark muscovado sugar
  • 3 large free-range eggs
  • 40g whole almonds, chopped
  • ½ tbsp treacle
  • ½ unwaxed lemon, finely grated zest only
  • ½ orange, finely grated zest only

For the marzipan

  • 2 tbsp apricot jam, warmed
  • Icing sugar, for dusting
  • 450g marzipan

For the royal icing

  • 2 free-range egg whites
  • 450g icing sugar, sifted
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 tsp glycerine

 

Method

  1. Place the mixed fruit in a large bowl and add the glacé cherries, apricots, and mixed candied peel. Stir in the brandy, cover, and leave in a cool place overnight.
  2. Using the butter, lightly grease your cake tin. Cut a strip of baking paper to fit twice around the sides of the tin, you’ll want a strip about 2.5cm to fold in at the bottom.
  3. Cut two circles of baking paper, the diameter of your cake tin, and place at the bottom, greasing a little around the edges to form a join with the side-lining.
  4. Preheat oven to 140C/120C Fan/Gas 1.
  5. Place the flour, nutmeg, mixed spice, butter, sugar, eggs, almonds, treacle, and citrus zest in a large bowl. Beat well. Fold in the soaked fruits.
  6. Spoon the mixture into the prepared cake tin and spread out evenly.
  7. Cover the top of the cake loosely with a double layer of baking paper. Bake for around 4 hours, or until the cake feels firm to the touch and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. It’s a good idea to check the cake half an hour before the cooking time is up. Cool the cake in the tin.
  8. When it is cool, pierce the cake at intervals with a fine skewer and ‘feed’ with a little splash of brandy. Once the cake is completely cold, remove it from the tin but leave the lining paper on it. Wrap the cake in a double layer of baking paper and again in foil. Store in a cool, dry place for a day or two, ideally longer for up to 3 months, feeding at intervals with more brandy.
  9. Begin covering the cake a day or two before you want to serve. Stand the cake upside down, flat side uppermost, on a cake board or serving plate that’s 5cm larger than the cake.
  10. Warm the apricot jams and use to brush the sides and top of the cake.
  11. Dust a work surface with icing sugar. Roll out the marzipan to a circle at least 5cm larger than the surface of the cake, you’re looking to cover the side of the cake with the excess.
  12. Carefully lift the marzipan over the cake using the rolling pin. Gently level and smooth the top, then ease the marzipan down the sides of the cake, smoothing it as you go. If necessary, trim excess marzipan from the base of the cake with a small sharp knife. Cover loosely and leave for a day or two before, allowing it to dry out a little before adding the royal icing.
  13. For the royal icing, separate the whites of three eggs and whisk in a large bowl until they are frothy. Mix in the sifted icing sugar, a tablespoonful at a time. If using a machine, keep the speed low. Stir in the lemon juice and glycerine and beat until the icing is very stiff, white, and stands up in peaks.
  14. To ice the cake, place all the icing on the top of the cake. Spread evenly over the top and sides of the cake. For a snow-peak effect, use a small knife to rough up the icing.
  15. Leave the cake loosely covered overnight for the icing to harden a little, then store it in an airtight container in a cool place until needed.